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Regardless of the controversy, the “New Gay Japan” coat is now sold out in its limited run of 50 pieces. Replicas are already flooding online markets, though none carry the “Verified” stamp.

“It’s not ‘gay’ as in a stereotype,” explains Tokyo-based fashion curator Kenji Tanaka. “It’s ‘gay’ as in a new lens. The ‘New Gay Japan’ coat says: I am not assimilating. I am not wearing your muted European colors. I am from Tokyo, and I am here.”